StingRay - Urskog Krona | Caliber | R-SPEC DUAL REAR | 12S 5Ah | Dual VESC

Wow, what a good day :smiley: and its the WE !!! Beautifull deck once again :stuck_out_tongue:

:smiley: courage !

christmas time !

Waiting is the hardest. This will be a great setup.

Waiting is the hardest. This will be a great setup.

The motors have arrived!!
I ordered after the VESC’s and after the mount kit, but DHL is amazing! They just delivered today!
They left Melbourne on Friday, by Saturday they were in Singapore, on Sunday they were in Germany and yesterday they were processed at Customs and delivered today! :smiley: :smiley: :smiley:

I also received some 10AWG and 12AWG wire, connectors, velcro straps, etc.
Still waiting on the VESC’s, mount kit and antispark connectors. I’m hoping the remote will arrive today also.

NOW, important question - mostly to OKP or anyone else with experience: the enclosure for the electronics and batteries!

I will try to design something in 3d to print, but perhaps using fiberglass would better?
I read OKP’s vanguard thread and saw all the amazing pictures, but the french confuses me a lot!

This is what I understood of the process:

  • OKP is a magician and has incredible skill and patience.
  • Make a mold from roofmate foam, cover in tape?
  • Put resin and hardener mix and one layer of fiberglass?
  • Put plasticin to divide the enclosure from the fixing holes, put carbon fiber to re-enforce and fill (?) with resin/hardener?
  • Paint?

For the batteries OKP used carbon fiber? where do I even get that??
The process is the same as with normal fiberglass?

Is this something you think I can do, or should I really try to print something or buy enclosures from alien? :roll:

Woooooooaaahhh !!! My precious :smiley:

All good so you get allmost all !?!
Yes for your elec enclosure you can print it, but it work really fine to make your’s hand made in époxy/fiberglass !
He got a good tutorial that we all follow :smiley: : HERE and some more here :wink:
- OKP is a magician and has incredible skill and patience.
:lol: That is true, OKP MASTER still win !!
If I read weel your step is good,

  • 1- mold in polystyrène http://www.toutsurlisolation.com/var/to … medium.jpg
    2 - resin and hardener mix and one layer of fiberglass/carbone exactly (you can insert your fixing hole between 2 layers of fibreglass/carbone but put fiberglass inside to separe carbone from electronic)
    3 - you could make step 2 in 2 times, 1th the part and then see how all fit, you can adjuste them cut you fibreglass enclosure to adjust and then reput fiberglass and carbone to re-enforce all !

    • And then sand down, paint and you can reput a fine layer of epoxy to protect your paint/graphism 2

    • You can easly do it, I saw that you knew very well tinker ! This is a new experience and can be usefull for your drone or everything esle if you want to add a light body of carbone on it … And your enclosure gonna have the same concave of your deck ! And the mini space under your deck :wink:
      Its a good deal I think.
      otherwise I have « VENDS boitiers batterie Alien ABS et fibre diy (#1) »

    good continuation :wink:

  • lol ! no way I am a magician. I just learn by failure. Believe me, making your own epoxy enclosure is really easy and you will get better at it over time. We will fully support you and the result will be awesome.

    You need to look around your home/city if there are any composites shop. You need fiberglass, epoxy resin (avoid polyester at any cost), a protection mask (to protect your lungs), a bunch of latex gloves (really cheap)

    All the material is cheap (don’t go carbon fiber first, it’s expensive for prototyping)

    ps: beautiful picture !
    ps: you can put epoxy/fiberglass on your foam mold… to remove it… just put acetone, it will dissolve the foam. Make sure you do that outside your home with aeration (i.e go outside)

    Thank you Riako, OKP!! :smiley: :smiley:

    I think I will order from Boutique Resine Epoxy, but what is the best fiberglass? There are many different ones - 202g/m2, 105g/m2, etc. What is the best for the enclosure?

    check this shop : SF COMPOSITE

    I got a 163 g/m² … I dont really know, I try 80 but verr light maybe just to cover yout peint with resin. And I try more that 200 but the fibre is to big and start to be seen more after…

    Small update:
    Received the VESC’s today, and also the antispark connectors.
    Yesterday I received the mountkit from AlienDrive.
    I am now just waiting for the remote which should have arrived by now, but still not here.

    I found a company not far from where I live that makes kayaks and canoes, they will sell me the fiberglass, resin and carbon fiber, but they are not open on the weekend so I will try to ask a friend to go there and get the materials!

    So I should start building soon. :smiley: :smiley:

    well, you can assemble the motors, mounts connect the motors to the VESCs, configure the VESCs lots of things to work on soon !

    don’t forget to buy epoxy (and not polyester resin)

    yes ! All Good !! Everything falls into place very nicely !!!

    Happy building :smiley:

    For fiberglass the more dense it is mess layer you have to do, but having more layer help to have no holes because of superpose. So something between 150/200 and 3 layers is best compromise from my own experiences.

    The difficult parts are the corner.

    don't forget to buy epoxy (and not polyester resin)

    Hi!
    I was on the phone with the company that will sell me the fiberglass and resin, the man was very nice and tried to help me all the way, but he did not understand why I wanted epoxy and not polyester. He kept on saying that using epoxy with fiberglass is wasting epoxy.
    Can you tell me why I shouldn’t use polyester? I’m kind of curious now! :?: :?:

    http://www.amtcomposites.co.za/sites/de … yester.pdf

    there’s a lot of literature on the internet. Both are great, for my usage; epoxy is better… the lack of odor (which does not mean it is not dangerous) is a major benefit, as well as the fact that epoxy does not stick to 3M tape, polyurethane, clingfilm… way more easy to handle.

    http://www.amtcomposites.co.za/sites/de … yester.pdf

    there’s a lot of literature on the internet. Both are great, for my usage; epoxy is better… the lack of odor (which does not mean it is not dangerous) is a major benefit, as well as the fact that epoxy does not stick to 3M tape, polyurethane, clingfilm… way more easy to handle.

    Got it, many thanks!! I like to understand the reasoning behind doing things, so thanks for helping!
    I will get on the phone again and ask him for the epoxy and fiberglass.
    My friend should pick it up later today.

    Many thanks!!

    Take 12hours epoxy - some epoxy require 24 hours but waiting when prototyping is not fun :slight_smile:

    Finally I have all the parts (minus the bolts for the trucks! :roll: ).
    Today I had some time to start building, and now I have some questions for anyone that can help!

    Everything layed out, forgot the VESC’s :lol:

    Then I started replacing the bushings on the trucks, but I noticed I had received 4 conical bushings, I should have 2 conical and 2 cylynder no? I must have made a mistake ordering, but no matter, I replaced only the conical bushings and the pivot caps.

    Then I mounted the bearings to the wheels.

    Now, first question, how does the pulley tighten on the motor shaft?
    The pulleys came with 2 metal pieces (in the picture) that I can’t figure out where to mount!

    And also about aligning the motors and wheels, any correct way to do this?
    I think I mounted the motors correctly, and the wheels also, but the gap between the motors is very small, they are almost touching!
    How should I align the belt/pulley/sprocket?
    (The bolts for the motor mounts and pulleys in the picture are not tightened, just put everything together to see how it fits, it is not definitive.)

    Then I put the risers and front truck and put a measuring caliper through the hole to measure the length of the bolts I will need, it’s around 32 to 35mm I think. I will buy them tomorrow!

    Then I started replacing the bushings on the trucks, but I noticed I had received 4 conical bushings, I should have 2 conical and 2 cylynder no? I must have made a mistake ordering, but no matter, I replaced only the conical bushings and the pivot caps. ha yes if you command a cone, you get by 2 but only cone ... you have to command barrel then Now, first question, how does the pulley tighten on the motor shaft? The pulleys came with 2 metal pieces (in the picture) that I can't figure out where to mount! it is the 3mm keyway , which fit into the slot of the motor,on the shaft. then hold it on the pulley with the little grub screw : And also about aligning the motors and wheels, any correct way to do this? I think I mounted the motors correctly, and the wheels also, but the gap between the motors is very small, they are almost touching! How should I align the belt/pulley/sprocket? (The bolts for the motor mounts and pulleys in the picture are not tightened, just put everything together to see how it fits, it is not definitive.) yes but she did not touch! this is the most important, look at the Paulfred's kid setup, there are 1 mm and "Busted Board | Vanguard Flex 3 | Caliber | R-SPEC | DUAL REAR 2WD | 12S 4AH | DUAL VESCs"...